This is the page where you can source all your basic clothing needs for blending in as a soldier in the Civil Wars. If you need a basic guide to what to wear before you order, go to the introduction on the front page. We prefer to take our own measurements, (as any alterations once the garment is made will incur further cost) but if this is not possible please take carefully with a non stretchy tape measure and please refer to the charts below as well as the guidelines for the item you are ordering. Some items have a longer lead time, and there may be a wait during busy periods, but we will always keep in touch re: progress of your order.

Soldier’s Shirt

The basic item of underclothing in the civil war. Our shirts are all made of linen as they were in the 1640s. Linen is hard wearing as well as authentic and also feels cooler than cotton as it tends to wick away moisture. The 1642 Tailor shirts are hand-sewn with run and fell seams, shoulder, underarm gussets, looplace neck ties and a small collar/falling band is attached as standard. The basic shirt is almost knee-length. please let us know before placing and order if you prefer a different length or a different collar option. Darted falling bands are extra.

Measurements required:

Chest, arm length from neck to wrist, collar size, back length of shirt from neck to hem and circumference of wrist..

Price £100

Officer’s Shirt

Cut to the same pattern as the basic soldier’s shirt with a small plain band at the collar, but of a finer linen and more gathered at the shoulders and across the chest, featuring thread worked buttons and a worked closure at the bottom of the chest opening. If you prefer a more showy collar or perhaps lace at the cuffs, these options are available at extra cost.

Price from £130

Measurements required:

Chest, arm length from neck to wrist, collar size, back length of shirt from neck to hem and circumference of wrist.

Soldier’s Coat

The basic option for soldier’s clothing in the civil war, made from wool with linen lining. The 1642 Tailor coat is made from fulled and milled broadcloth so we can leave the cut edges as was the common tailoring practice of the time and is basically cut from a generic pattern, so not a fitted item. The standard coat is cut with no adornment at the shoulders or turn-back facings at the cuff. These are optional extras you should mention when ordering if you want them. Flat pewter buttons are our standard method of closing the front. If you would prefer no linen lining that is also an option. More info about soldier’s coats is in this post.

Measurements required:

Chest, waist (measured at natural waist height), collar size, shoulder from neck to point of shoulder, arm (slightly bent) from point of shoulder to wrist, back measurement from underarm to underarm.

Price £150 (for standard sizes)

Soldier’s Breeches

Basic wool or canvas breeches, gathered at the waist. We recommend unconfined breeches, but we can also gather at the knee. Leather pockets are standard as are the same flat pewter buttons we use on our coats. If you would prefer thread worked ones let us know.

Measurements required:

Waist, outside leg, inside leg, seat, circumference just below the knee and calf (for unconfined breeches). 

Price £130

Montero Cap

We can’t pretend this is an authentic pattern as there are none left, but we can say it looks like the pictures, folds like it is meant to and feels like a hat. Made in fulled wool broadcloth with a linen liner. Choice of pointed, round or angular skirt fronts (the skirt is the foldy part). Other options include hand-made looplace decoration and a button on the top, but these are extra. More information can be found here.

Price £45

Measurement required:

Circumference of head

Doublet

The basic item of male clothing, worn over the shirt and beneath the soldier’s coat. A doublet was worn by just about everyone and with the internal girdlestead was used to keep your breeches up. If you really want to check someone’s authenticity, see if they are using their doublet or if there is a concealed pair of braces lurking beneath. This is a complicated item, even the most basic of doublets were constructed with linings, interlinings, stiffened collars etc. I’ve written up what a doublet consists of here. It was always made to measure by the local tailor and we will require at least one fitting to be sure it will suit you. Consequently doublets are also the garments with the longest lead time of all the things we make. There are no exceptions and we don’t make doublets for people we can’t meet up with. If you were expecting a cheaper or quicker option, you might really be looking for a coat.

Measurements required:

Chest, waist, shoulder, arm, back, nape of neck to waist and your height please (it helps with the bara system of pattern drafting)

Prices start at £200

Measurement Chart Front

Measurement Chart Back